КАРЛСОН и молоко
Текст: Светлана Лехтман
В оформлении использована картина Андреа Соларио, "Мадонна с зелёной подушкой", ок. 1507 г.
— Если Гюльфия голодна, то вот здесь есть колбаса и картошка, — сказал Карлсон, заглянув в буфет. — Ни один младенец в мире не умрет с голоду, пока у Карлсона не переведутся колбаса и картошка.
Но Малыш сомневался, что Гюльфия станет есть колбасу и картошку.
— Таких маленьких детей кормят, по-моему, молоком, — возразил он.
Астрид Линдгрен. «Малыш и Карлсон»
Жестокая диета
Крохе Гюльфие повезло: Малыш за несколько минут убедил друга, что младенцев лучше всего кормить молоком, и «лучшая в мире нянька» молоко достала. Между тем Всемирная организация здравоохранения уже почти двадцать лет уговаривает родителей кормить младенцев грудным молоком, а не искусственными кормами или сосисками с пюре. ВОЗ даже организовала Всемирную неделю грудного вскармливания, и теперь каждый год в первую неделю августа в 120 странах пропагандируют материнское молоко.
Любопытно, что столь естественная мысль — кормить младенца молоком матери — не всегда воспринималась как аксиома. Сотрудник института демографии Российской академии наук Екатерина Кваша пишет, что в начале XX века в православных семьях (а это в основном крестьянские) было принято чуть ли не с первых дней жизни давать ребенку прикорм или вообще лишать его грудного молока. Матери приходилось работать, а за малышом присматривали старшие дети или старики. Еду грудничку оставляли на весь день. Младенческая смертность в России была одной из самых высоких в Европе — в полтора-три раза выше, чем в развитых странах.
Впервые в России
В 1901 году одесский врач Абрам Гершензон основал первую в России детскую консультацию «Капля молока», где бесплатно или по доступным ценам отпускались стерилизованные молочные смеси. Там же кормящим матерям оказывалась консультативная помощь. (По сути, «Капля молока» стала прообразом молочных кухонь, в которых во времена СССР бесплатно отпускались молочные смеси для младенцев).
В последующие годы Абрам Гершензон организовал сеть детских консультаций в Новороссийском крае, преподавал в Институте охраны материнства и младенчества, на курсах переподготовки врачей и медицинских сестер. В 2009 году в Москве прошел съезд педиатров России, на котором одессит предложил устроить в больших городах консультации для молодых матерей. «Съезд педиатров должен взять на себя инициативу, возбудив перед Министерством народного просвещения ходатайство об устройстве при детских клиниках отделений для грудных детей с образцовыми молочными кухнями», — писал Гершензон. Впоследствии эта программа была реализована в СССР. А популярная брошюра А. О. Гершензона «Как кормить грудного ребенка и как с ним обращаться» выдержала несколько изданий на трех языках — русском, украинском и идиш. В Израиле и в настоящее время работают пункты оказания помощи семьям «Капля молока». «Типат Халав» — так это звучит в переводе на иврит.
Грудное молоко — в меню ресторана
А в Швейцарии пошли еще дальше: в меню одного из ресторанов включили блюда на грудном молоке. Тушеное мясо, супчики и соусы содержат по меньшей мере 75 % человеческого грудного молока. «Мы все выросли на нем, тогда почему мы не можем включить материнское молоко в наш ежедневный рацион?» — считает директор ресторана Ганс Лочер. Лочер привлек внимание общественности после того, как дал объявление о наборе женщин-доноров. Он обещал, что каждая такая «кормилица» будет получать свыше 6 долларов за 400 мл молока.
«Первый эксперимент с грудным молоком я провел, когда родилась моя дочь, — рассказал Лочер. — Из него можно приготовить божественно вкусные вещи, однако чтобы сохранить нужную консистенцию, в молоко необходимо добавлять немного взбитых сливок». 
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